I've been unconvinced by past whites from the Rectorie, but their 2010 Collioure L'Argile - no doubt in significant part due to its vintage, though perhaps also thanks to my having tasted it so young and soon after bottling - represents a rare instance where I would say that the wood (here barrique demi-muids in which this is fermented) actually does seem to "frame" the fruit, in this case of Grenache Gris and Blanc, without obscuring the mineral elements or sense of dynamic that is possible with those cepages. Ripe quince and pineapple are tinged with fresh ginger and musky floral perfume on the nose; then migrate to a lush yet persistently vivacious and fundamentally firm palate, with mouth-watering salinity and alkaline stony notes playing against the fruit and flowers in a long, persistently juicy finish. I don't want to speculate on how this will evolve from bottle except to say that it looks quite likely that it will remain delicious and interesting well past its first year. I did not visit Marc and Thierry Parce's Domaine de la Rectorie this year, though judging by the samples that came my way, that was clearly my mistake.Jack Siler Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 45 45 23 59

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