The 2008 Syrah Ascent is a selection of the estate’s best barrels across multiple sites. It is the biggest and most opulent of the 2008 Syrahs. The Ascent boasts tons of dark fruit but it comes across as overdone and very heavy. The 100% new Francois Freres barrels, from a tonnellier whose barrels have a distinct signature, marks the wine to a significant degree. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. The 2008 Syrahs are the highlights among these new releases from Terre Rouge. A spring frost, drought conditions and generally cool weather combines to produce wines of richness and personality. These wines represent some of the most exciting work being done in the Sierra Foothills, an area that doesn’t get a lot of attention. Tel. (209) 245-3117; www.terrerougewines.com

The estate’s flagship wine, the 2007 Syrah Ascent, is a big, beefy, blockbuster red boasting an inky/ruby/purple color along with complex aromas of smoked meats, bacon fat, spring flowers, creme de cassis, and blackberries. Extremely rich, yet also surprisingly elegant, it reveals more French oak in its aromatic and flavor profiles than its siblings as well as more structure. It is clearly meant to age for a decade or more. Working from such less prestigious appellations in Amador County as Sierra Foothills and the Shenandoah Valley, Terre Rouge has emerged as one of the stars of the region. Their wines continue to go from strength to strength, and are annual entries as my picks of some of the better Rhone Ranger offerings in the marketplace. Moreover, except for their flagship cuvee, the Syrah Ascent, prices are very fair. For starters, they have fashioned two very good dry whites. These are all impressive efforts that admirably demonstrate the potential that exists in the Sierra Foothills. Kudos to Terre Rouge! Tel. (209) 245-3117; Fax (209) 245-5415

This is one of the few California Syrahs that demands time in the cellar. Its tough tannins form an aloof astringency that makes it virtually undrinkable now, but it has an incredible core of blackberry, black currant and dark chocolate fruit. Peppery, anise, leather and spice notes, in addition to slightly caramelized vanillins from 100% new oak, impart great complexity. Best 2012 and beyond.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 95

This is Terre Rouge’s priciest Syrah, a barrel selection of the best lots. It’s a big wine. No, make that huge. Godzilla-esque. Just explodes in the mouth with massive flavors of blackberry and black cherry jam, milk chocolate, anise, cedar and pepper. Finishes bone dry, and the tannins are also gigantic, but very finely ground. You need to cellar this puppy. Best after 2010, for about six years.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94