Richer and more muscular than the elegant Charlemagne, the 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of pear, citrus oil, beeswax, fresh hay and toasted nuts. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract.

The 2016 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru was touched more by the frost than other vineyards owned by Vougeraie, and yet they still managed a supremely well-crafted and delicious wine. It has a focused and mineral-rich bouquet with scents of oyster shell and something estuarine on the nose. The palate has a feisty and lively entry, a keen line of acidity, more depth and concentration than the Bienvenue and with a good persistence on the finish. This is excellent.

The 2015 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a far superior bouquet to the Bienvenue with more granitic, cold stone aromas, more terroir expression coming through. The palate is very well balanced with fine acidity, with a lovely salinity lending complexity and sappiness on the finish. This is a fine Batard-Montrachet, if not the best on the block in 2015.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Vougeraie's 2014 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a ripe and quite generous bouquet with fresh limes, orange zest and just a hint of mango. The oak here is nicely integrated. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, vibrant and generous with just a final touch of passion fruit toward the finish that allows the mineralité to shine. While not a subtle Batard-Montrachet, it is stylish and sophisticated, plus it brims over with flavor. A fabulous wine from Pierre Vincent prior to his departure for Domaine Leflaive.

The 2013 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru, of which there are four barrels this year, has a strict, slightly discombobulated bouquet after the Charlemagne, as if it had forgotten its lines. Fortunately, the palate is crisp and taut with touches of peach and orange sorbet, a fine line of acidity and a pretty finish that lingers in the mouth. Fine, but not top-of-the-class compared to other growers.