Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, Cote de Nuits, France

伍杰雷酒莊伊維澤園（熱夫雷-香貝丹村）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：7799

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is one of the highlights of the range, opening in the glass with scents of cassis, smoked meats, rich soil tones, spices and dried flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and nicely concentrated, with bright acids and fine depth at the core.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, 60% whole bunch fruit this year, has a strict and conservative bouquet, but one that is well defined with fine mineralité. The palate is vivacious on the entry with crisp acidity, slightly chalky tannins, bright and focused with an almost clinical, fresh and tensile finish. You can feel the mouth tingling after the wine has departed. Very fine.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles has a transparent bouquet, open and well defined, the mineralité clear to see amongst the vivid red berry fruit. The aromatics alongegive off the sense of energy and there is a lovely seaweed (Japanese nori?) note emerging after a couple of minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of sinew on the entry. It is spicier than previous vintages that I have tasted, a touch of dried blood tincturing the red berry fruit, leading to a harmonious but grippy finish that needs to smooth out its edges. The remainder of its élevage will see to that. It is remarkably different from the high density planting La Vigne en Foule but just as worthy of attention.

The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin Evocelles contains more whole cluster than the la Justice at 70% of the total blend, matured with 30% new oak. It has a softer bouquet than the la Justice with crushed strawberry, mulberry and red plum aromas, touches of rose petal in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a sorbet-like core of fruit, fresh acidity, but just tapering in a little toward the finish. I think this will put on more weight by the time of bottling.

According to Pierre, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles suffered a lot of millerandage in 2012 and so he supplemented the blend with 70% whole bunches. The nose is offers brambly red fruit mixed with mushroom and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, almost creamy opening. It needs time for the new oak (30%) to be subsumed, although there is decent weight on the vanilla-laced finish. Domaine de la Vougeraie was founded in 1998 when the domaines of Claudine Deschamps, Pierre Ponnelle, Louis Voilland and L’Heritier-Guyot were merged. I remember it well because at the time I was exporting L’Heritier-Guyot’s wines to Japan (to be frank, they were quite ordinary back then.) The man behind the venture was Jean-Claude Boisset, whose own considerable holdings meant that Domaine de la Vougeraie became a significant player in the Cote d’Or, with 37 hectares of prime vineyard including seven grand crus to their name. I have to be honest and say that like many others, I liked the first few vintages of their wine, but found them a little predictable and seemed to struggle for charm and personality. Perhaps that was a reflection of former winemaker Pascal Marchand applying the practices he had learned at Comte Armand: a lot of new oak with 100% de-stemmed fruit – not really my bag. When he departed for pastures new, incoming winemaker Pierre Vincent seemed to apply a gentler touch. The new oak is still part of the wines’ character, but there is certainly a more considered approach, plus he is more open to using whole cluster fruit. Managing such an array of wines with a relatively small team cannot be easy in challenging vintages such as 2012, or for that matter 2013. Pierre told me that his average yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare, though for the grand crus, they were down to 17 hectoliters per hectare. Importer: Boisset Family Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (800) 878-1123