The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, orange oil and a generous but not overpowering application of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a tangy, vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a saline finish. As readers will remember, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée.

There are 13,053 bottles of Domaine de la Vougeraie's superb 2017 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, representing a modest yield for this emblematic monopole. Opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of fresh green pear, peach, mandarin oil and petrol, framed by a discreet touch of nutty new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a delicate and elegantly tight-knit core of fruit and a long, precise finish. As readers may know, small percentages of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc complement Chardonnay in this cuvée.

The 2015 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot is a very pretty wine which will appeal to anyone who privileges freshness and delicacy, wafting from the glass with a detailed bouquet of pear, preserved citrus, citrus zest and a subtle framing of toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is light to medium-bodied, built around a bright line of acidity and decidedly fine-boned, carrying very little texture for a 2015, but with plenty of intensity and cut and no sense of meanness or asperity. The finish is long and stony. It will be interesting to see how it evolves in bottle. At fully 13,428 bottles, this is one of Domaine de la Vougeraie's largest cuvées.

Initial high toast aromas soften to bring out spice and yellow fruits. The palate shows more fruit, but still gives layered wood over the citrus, apricot and final acidity. There is a golden feel of superripe fruit. Drink over the next 3–4 years. Imported by Boisset America. ——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 91