Aromas of peonies, plums, red berries, potpourri, warm spices and orange rind introduce de Montille's 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and supple tannins that assert themselves gently on the finish. As usual, this will require some patience.

Vinified entirely with whole clusters, de Montille's 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds delivers a lovely bouquet of orange rind, dark berries, peonies, baking chocolate and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, this is a lively and serious wine, underpinned by a muscular chassis of rich, powdery tannin.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds is also showing very well, bursting with expressive aromas of peonies, orange rind and wild berries, as well as hints of raw cocoa and sweet soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with an ample core of succulent fruit underpinned by melting tannins and lively acids. While it's already deceptively charming, this also has the necessary depth for sustained and positive development in the cellar. From 80-year-old vines, this is one of de Montille's emblematic wines—and with good reason.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds is 100% whole cluster and 30% new oak. This vineyard was not affected by the frost. It has a very intense blackberry and Morello cherry-scented bouquet with hints of iodine and incense developing with time. I adore the controlled opulence here. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin but less rigid than the Mitans, with a touch of salinity, a light marine influence toward the finish. This has very good potential, but it will reward those with patience to cellar 4 or 5 years.