As good as the regular cuvée is, I expected more from the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Chataignier. Alas, while there are glimpses of attractive fruit, most of what this cuvée smells and tastes like are new oak barrels. They're sexy barrels, suffusing the wine with notes of vanilla and baking spices, but there's just too much of it.

A deeper, richer and more concentrated wine, the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Chataigner is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre from the La Crau and Grand Pierre lieux-dits, and was raised all in accommodation of demi-muids, barrique and oak tanks. Hitting 14.5% natural alcohol and with just under 200 cases made, it offers lots of smoked dark fruits, chocolate, peppery herbs and licorice to go with a medium to full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, slightly modern style on the palate. While this is certainly not for the traditionalist, it has surprising density and texture. I like it now, but it will hold for 5-8 years.

The outstanding 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Chataigner is a deeper, richer wine, more full-bodied, not quite as seductive as its counterpart, but beautifully rich, impeccably balanced, with pure kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with some licorice and loamy soil notes. It is full-bodied with a creamy texture and lush, heady finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Two strong offerings from this estate, which has long been represented in the United States, although until recently the wines were too blatantly mainstream and commercial. Things have certainly improved.Importer: Schieffelin & Somerset, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8337

The 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chataiguier reveals a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a complex bouquet of garrigue (a blend of Provencal herbs and earth), and peppery, black cherry and plum-like fruit, a deep, rich, concentrated, medium to full-bodied style with excellent purity. It will provide delicious drinking upon release, and last for a decade. No known American importer.