From a 0.13 hectare parcel, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques displays an attractive and incipiently complex bouquet of sweet wild berries, candied peel, dried flowers, grilled meat and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy but tensile, with an elegant chassis of fine-grained tannins, excellent concentration and a long finish.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques was just a single used barrel with 20% whole bunch. It has a beautiful, quixotic bouquet with ebullient red cherries, raspberry and mineral scents, becoming more and more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine, supple tannin, pure shimmering red fruit and just thrilling tension on the finish. Dare I say it reminds me of Armand Rousseau? I was blown away by this Lavaux—a brilliant wine.

A slightly more elegant nose features a cool and restrained array of assorted red berries, game, earth and a hint of wet stone. The stony character of the nose is picked up by the delicious middle weight flavors though the finish is somewhat drying though the abundant gas makes this difficult to read.