The 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Marceau is 50% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 10% each Counoise and Vaccarèse, matured in new barriques (45%) and older foudres (55%). Super ripe, full-bodied and soft, it offers up scents of raisin, chocolate and black cherries, a plush mouthfeel and a long, chocolaty finish. Despite the high proportion of Mourvèdre, this seems destined for early drinking.

A blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 10% each Counoise and Vaccarèse, nearly half of which was fermented and aged in new oak, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Marceau comes solely from the les Terres Blanches lieu-dit. Full-bodied, silky textured, rich and deep, the oak is unobtrusive, subtly framing ripe cherry and apricot fruit, hints of menthol and pencil shavings. This domaine is on fire, with every cuvée different yet worthy of serious attention.

The 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Marceau has too much volatile acidity and is relatively unenjoyable.

Lastly, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Marceau was still in foudre at the time of this tasting. A non-traditional blend of 67% Mourvedre, 17% Grenache and 8% each of Syrah and Counoise, it boasts terrific dark fruits, plum, earth and assorted meatiness to go with a medium to full-bodied, rich and nicely concentrated style. I think it will be reasonably approachable on release, yet should have an easy 10-15 years of longevity given its high Mourvedre content.

A blend of 35% Grenache, 30% Syrah and the rest Vaccarese, Mourvedre and Terret Noir, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Marceau possesses a deeper color along with attractive, elegant notes of black fruits, incense, lavender and forest floor. While neither as open-knit nor Provencal in personality as the Alchimie, it is a pleasant, well-made effort. (Not yet released) Domaine des 3 Cellier represents one-half of the residue of what was previously reviewed under the name Domaine Saint-Benoit. The three Cellier brothers, Ludovic, Julien and Benoit, are the eighth generation of a family of wine growers in Chateauneuf du Pape. They own nearly 35 acres of vines spread throughout 24 different plots, and the wines they have been producing recently are better than what was achieved under the Domaine Saint-Benoit label. The 2011s are close in quality to the estate’s 2010s, with perhaps the advantage of being slightly more open-knit, forward and precocious. The 2010s are made from similar blends. Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; www.royalwine.com