A blend of Grenache and Syrah, the medium deep ruby-colored 1998 Domaine des Beates Les Matines is a round, richly fruity wine with plenty of berry fruit, no hard edges, and admirable freshness and liveliness. It should drink well for 4-5 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

The 1997 Les Matines (a Syrah/Grenache dominated blend) is a straightforward, light to medium-bodied wine meant to be consumed over the next several years. While neither complex nor rich, it is refreshing and vibrant, if somewhat simple. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

The new estate that Michel Chapoutier co-owns in Coteaux d'Aix en Provence produces three levels of wine. The most commercial level is Les Matines, the richer second level is Beates, and the third level is the luxury cuvee from old vines called Terra d'Or, a wine with Domaine Trevallon-like richness and complexity. The 1996 Les Matines is a peppery, licorice, smoky-scented wine with a dark ruby color, copious quantities of black cherries and Provencal herbs in its flavors, light tannin, and good flesh. It is the perfect wine to serve with hamburgers, pizza, and barbequed foods.