The 2021 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is lovely, exhibiting aromas of pear, peach and lemon mingled with buttery pastry, marzipan and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a fleshy core of fruit girdled by racy acids, it displays fine depth and cut.

The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is brilliant, offering up a complex bouquet of pear, crisp stone fruits, clear honey, baking spices, wheat toast and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, deep and taut, it's extremely concentrated, with racy acids and an abundance of chalky structuring extract. This site has really excelled this year.

The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is very promising indeed, wafting from the glass with notes of citrus zest, buttered orchard fruit, toasted almonds, honeycomb and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, deep and tightly wound, with terrific concentration and cut, it's elegantly muscular, with chalky structuring dry extract and a long, precise finish.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is also showing very well, revealing aromas of pear, crisp yellow orchard fruit, fresh peach, almond paste and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and muscular palate that's deep, concentrated and structured, with more texture and a more introverted profile than the more expressive Genevrières. This is another great bottle in the making.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes confirms its brilliant showing from barrel, offering up a lovely bouquet of fresh pear, mandarin, buttered apples, white flowers and fresh pastry, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional palate that's muscular, structured and concentrated, with fine cut and a long, chalky finish. As is quite often the case, I have a preference for this Charmes over Lafon's Perrières this year, though it will be interesting to put that contention to the test a decade from now.