Brun’s 2010 Beaujolais Chardonnay Classic once again offers sensational value and a distinctively delicious personality such as you won’t find in 98% or more of Chardonnay grown anywhere in the world. A bright yet luscious meld of melons, pineapple, lemon, and apple seems suffused with shrimp shell reduction and is laced with mouthwatering salinity that dares you to resist the next sip. The cut and invigoration will keep you on your toes yet remain allied to a subtle sense of creaminess; whilst a multiplicity of mineral shadings leaves you shaking your head as you repeatedly raise your wrist. Savor this beauty over the next 2-3 years. (The 2009 rendition which I reviewed in issue 190, while delicious, sacrificed some of the typical virtues of this cuvee to warm weather and early harvest, and I would drink-up soon any I still had on hand.) Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
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