The Terres Dorees 2008 Beaujolais Blanc Chardonnay smells of lime, oregano, diverse flowers, white peach, and an apparent amalgam of chalk dust and sea breeze. With a formidable sense of underlying density and mysterious minerality, allied to luscious, vivacious peach and lime fruit, it displays a fine sense of richness – while remaining, at 12% alcohol, quite light – and finishes with irresistible juiciness and savor, reminiscent of Chenin Blanc or Riesling in its shimmering interchange of fruit and mineral. One can relish it anytime over the next several years, although it would be a shame to miss out on its youthful state. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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