The 2015 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is raised in 80% new oak with 20% whole bunch. It has a very detailed and focused bouquet with precise blackberry, raspberry and morello cherry aromas neatly infused with mineral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, powerful without losing control and building towards a very structured, spicy finish. Whilst I would still dial down the oak to 50-60%, nevertheless it remains a very well-crafted Chambertin with plenty of substance and ambition, and that ain't a bad thing when you are a Clos-de-Bèze.

The 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru includes 45% whole bunch fruit and was matured in 60% new oak. The nose is generous and perfumed with macerated black cherries, wild strawberry and light iodine notes, the new oak nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp, orange zest-tinged entry. The tannins are quite firm and lend a rigid framework to this wine, this blend from a new oak barrel suggesting that 60% will be the right amount and allow the fruit to come through. Still, I would like a little more breeding here...more aristocracy...this is Clos de Bèze after all!

The 2013 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a backward nose at first, opening reluctantly with pure dark plum, briary and mineral notes, but keeping everything in fourth, rather than fifth gear. The palate is well integrated with the oak, touches of brown sugar tincturing the red cherry and raspberry fruit and leading to a nicely poised finish. This is one of the best Grand Crus from the domaine this year.

The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet with wild strawberry and redcurrant scents, forest floor and wild mint that expands in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, good acidity and plush blackberry and cassis fruit encasing the finish that is reminiscent of the Bonnes-Mares. Good length here – this is very fine, though not quite reaching for the stars. This domaine must possess one of the most enviable portfolios in the Cote de Nuits, with several grand crus to their name scattered across 11.5-hectares of prime vineyard. So I guess one must ask the question why Drouhin-Laroze is not better known? I suppose you could argue that in the past, the wines had an air of commerciality about them, wines that were commendable and enjoyable, yet rarely approached the profundity of say Rousseau or Bachelet. Their intrinsic quality was not in doubt. The trouble is that when you have such a roll call of iconic grand crus to your name, the bar is simply raised. Personally, I have found much pleasure in previous vintages that always seem to show well in barrel. I have always found winemaker Philippe Drouhin to be a conscientious vigneron, usually with his wife Christine by his side, either in the office or pouring wines at tastings. And there is now a gradual changing over to the sixth generation as their son Nicolas and daughter Caroline, gain more involvement in the running of the estate that now includes a negociant arm overseen by Caroline. Tasting through their 2012s, there does remain a slight “heaviness” to the wines that you could align with say, Bernard Dugat, and that does not mean they are inherently inferior – just that it is a perceptible leitmotif that means they rarely contain the finesse or effortlessness of those aforementioned growers. I always come away thinking if that if they just tweaked their practices a little, they could suddenly see their wines capture that sense of magic – perhaps pick a little earlier, extract less and moderate the level of new wood that has always made an impression e.g. reconsider using 100% new oak for all the grand crus. This is an estate to watch. They have always quietly gone about creating very good wines, but it would not take much with those grand crus to see them suddenly elevated to the top league. Importer: available through Diva Beaune in the United States, also Atherton Wine Imports (www.awiwine.com) in California and through Fields, Morris & Verdin in the UK.