A sleeper of the vintage with outstanding potential, the deep ruby/purple-colored 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals terrific fruit purity and focus along with great delineation, a full-bodied mouthfeel and abundant blue and black fruits intermixed with kirsch, licorice and roasted Provencal herbs. (Not yet released)One of the bastions of traditionalism in Chateauneuf du Pape is Domaine de Pegau, long owned by the Feraud family, and now run by the charming, talented Laurence, who was exceptionally well-schooled by her father, Paul. This nearly 50-acre estate fashions some of the longest-lived, most interesting wines of the appellation. The success they have enjoyed with their estate wines has allowed the Ferauds to branch out with a small negociant operation that includes selections Laurence makes through her contacts in the southern Rhone as well as wines she co-producers with another Chateauneuf du Pape name well-known for high quality, Andre Brunel.Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

Composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah, the 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals lots of animal-like notes intermixed with new saddle leather, herbs, meat juices, black cherries and black currants. Ripe, rich, broad and atypically thick and juicy for a 2008, it should drink well for 10+ years. (Not yet released)Always one of my favorite places to visit, Laurence Feraud and her father, Paul (a speed fanatic who raced in on a motorcycle during my visit), conducted a fascinating tasting in their cellars. As value hunters know, several of the low end offerings here are wonderful expressions of Provence that deserve to be taken seriously. Under the family’s negociant label, Selection Laurence Feraud, there are some noteworthy efforts that are well worth checking out. As for the Domaine du Pegau estate wines, I had not yet tasted the 2007 Cuvee Reservee or 2007 Cuvee da Capo from bottle, and when I did, they lived up to all my previous accolades. Here are some in-the-bottle reports on recent vintages of Domaine du Pegau’s Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, Cuvee Laurence and Cuvee da Capo. I have been buying the Cuvee Reservees since 1979 and the greatest examples include the 1981, 1983, 1985, 1989, 1990, 2003 and the 2007. Not that the other offerings are not high quality, but as Shakespeare said, “Comparisons are odious.”Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

A real winner is the Selection Laurence Feraud 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape. Displaying abundant notes of black currants, lavender, garrigue, pepper and spice, it is a full-bodied effort with the luscious, voluptuous fruit this vintage showcases so beautifully. It should drink nicely for a decade or more. Always one of my favorite places to visit, Laurence Feraud and her father, Paul (a speed fanatic who raced in on a motorcycle during my visit), conducted a fascinating tasting in their cellars. As value hunters know, several of the low end offerings here are wonderful expressions of Provence that deserve to be taken seriously. Under the family’s negociant label, Selection Laurence Feraud, there are some noteworthy efforts that are well worth checking out. As for the Domaine du Pegau estate wines, I had not yet tasted the 2007 Cuvee Reservee or 2007 Cuvee da Capo from bottle, and when I did, they lived up to all my previous accolades. Here are some in-the-bottle reports on recent vintages of Domaine du Pegau’s Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, Cuvee Laurence and Cuvee da Capo. I have been buying the Cuvee Reservees since 1979 and the greatest examples include the 1981, 1983, 1985, 1989, 1990, 2003 and the 2007. Not that the other offerings are not high quality, but as Shakespeare said, “Comparisons are odious.”Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

The somewhat rustic 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape came from four different winemakers. It reveals attractive notes of roasted meats intermixed with dried herbs, licorice, pepper, and spice. Although slightly disjointed, it is generally good. P.S. A wine that is not to be missed is Laurence’s partner’s Costieres di Nimes. Mark Fincham produces a beautiful blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache called Red Note. The 2006 may be the finest yet made. It is an exuberant, flamboyant, richly fruity wine with loads of Provencal character. 2006 looks to be a very strong vintage for this region, even superior to 2005. The 2005 Red Note is more restrained, tannic, and closed, but quite good. One further note, I do not know what Laurence Feraud’s intention is, but she insisted that I taste two wines from Crete that she may or may not represent in France. One was the 2006 Nostos, a 100% Syrah, and the other was a Syrah/Grenache blend, the 2005 Nostos Cuvee Alexandra. Both were outrageously good wines that merit plenty of attention from adventurous wine consumers. I would buy them in a nanosecond if they were available in America!Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753The effervescent/dynamic Laurence Feraud continues to expand her family’s business, branching out into two negociant lines, one called Selection Laurence Feraud and the other Feraud-Brunel. The latter wines are made in conjunction with her friend (and proprietor of Les Cailloux), Andre Brunel. This is generally a very strong line-up of wines, with, ironically, the Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees perhaps weaker than the Cotes du Rhones, which is somewhat unusual. I think it is because there is much better fruit available in the Cotes du Rhone-Villages than in Chateauneuf du Pape, where the estates are holding back more and more of their best material for their own bottlings.