This site can often produce wines that only show their full potential at the end of élevage, and it certainly seems that I somewhat underestimated the potential of Dujac's 2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from barrel, as it showed even better from bottle. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis and plums mingled with notions of sweet spices and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with huge depth at the core, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. While this remains a somewhat reserved wine, its potential quality is much easier to grasp.

Aromas of cherries, raspberries, exotic spices, anise and blood orange introduce the 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts, a full-bodied, rich and muscular wine that's concentrated and primary, underpinned by lively acids and an imposing chassis of rich, powdery tannins. Even in the charming 2019 vintage, a decade's patience will be a minimum requirement for this Malconsorts.

Aromas of rose petals, red berries, plums, woodsmoke, exotic spices and hoisin introduce Dujac's 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts, a full-bodied, layered wine that's dramatic and enveloping but impressively fine-boned, with rich, powdery structuring tannins and a long, sapid finish. This showed especially well from barrel, and it has fully fulfilled its promise in bottle.

Both more concentrated and more introverted than the preceding Beaux Monts, Dujac's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, smoked duck and peonies. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly muscular, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and mouthwatering acids, concluding with a perfumed finish.