The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Village offers up aromas of cherries, wild berries, petals, sweet spices and creamy new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety palate that's muscular and concentrated, with lively acids and a heady finish. This checks in at 14.9% alcohol.

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Village mingles aromas of wild berries, cassis and cherries with hints of orange rind, spices and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a ripe but lively core of fruit, it's a gourmand, dramatic wine from Rouget.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, exotic spices, orange rind and smoked duck, deftly framed by the subtle imprint of some 30% new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, textural, and enveloping, with a ripe but succulent core of fruit, supple tannins and a fragrant finish. It's a blend derived from lieux-dits Aux Ravioles, Aux Ormes, Les Jacquines, Aux Réas, Vigneux and Barraux.

Rouget opted to mature the 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village in a mere 30% new oak this year, hoping to preserve the purity of the vintage's fruit, and the result is a beautifully balanced wine that bursts from the glass with aromas of smoky raspberries, sweet spices and candied peel. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and expressive with melting tannins and a gourmand but succulent core of fruit, concluding with a beautifully delineated finish.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Village, which I tasted from a new barrel, will ultimately include 40% new oak in the final blend. Emmanuel lost around half the crop due to frost damage. This has a gorgeous bouquet with sumptuous, very pure, red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit infused with orange sorbet notes that impart an irresistible freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with plush red fruit, a core of sweet blueberry and cassis fruit with a playful and almost candied finish. This brims over with joie-de-vivre.