The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Village exhibits notions of pear, green apple and white flowers, followed by a medium-bodied, elegantly textural palate that's lively but open-knit. This is an immediate, front-loaded bottling from Fontaine-Gagnard that's adapted to near-term consumption.

A cuvée that was produced from 1.7 hectares around the village and saw 20% new wood, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Village exhibits pretty aromas of white flowers, lime zest, pear and subtle oak vanillin. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with nice concentration, an open and expressive core and a precise, chalky finish. This will drink very well out of the gates given its charming but classic profile.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has quite a rounded, generous bouquet with dry honey notes infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and rounded, tinged with a little “fatness” on the finish, whilst there are hints of brioche and toffee apple lingering on the aftertaste. This is a fine steely Chassagne.

A great introduction to the estate’s wines, the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet shows gorgeous detail and generous inner sweetness for a village-level wine. The more delicate, feminine side of Chassagne comes through in the glass. A gentle spiced note adds complexity on the round, generous finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446