One of the highlights of the range this year is the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes, a lovely wine that exhibits notes of plums, raspberries, peonies, orange rind and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and charming, with powdery tannins and a saline finish, it's the finest rendition of this site that I can remember tasting chez Fourrier.

Revisited in bottle, the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes has turned out very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, spices, sweet berries, plums and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it's rich but lively, with fine concentration and a long, saline finish.

Rich and dramatic, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes bursts with aromas of ripe cherries, dark chocolate, plums and cassis, complemented by hints of rose petals and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, this is nicely balanced in its gourmand, fleshy style.

A supple, sensual wine that's drinking well earlier even than I predicted a few years ago, Fourrier's 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes bursts with aromas of sweet red berries, peonies, spices and orange rind, followed by a medium-bodied, ample and fleshy palate. With an ample core of fruit, succulent acids and melting tannins, it's no crime to open bottles today.