The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village bursts with aromas of pear, peach, warm pastry and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny palate that's a lively and nicely balanced example of Carillon's fleshy, enveloping style.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village is brighter and more precise than its rich, gourmand Chassagne counterpart, wafting from the glass with aromas of waxy citrus rind, smoke and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, pure and racy, with bright acids, elegantly glossy texture and a nicely defined finish.

Raised in a judicious 10-12% new oak, the 2013 Puligny-Montrachet has a more reticent nose compared to the Chassagne premier crus at the moment. The palate is taut on the malic entry, with a pleasant twist of lemon. There is satisfactory weight in the mouth with a saline aftertaste that lingers long after the wine has departed. This is commendable wine, one that I think will be best consumed in its youth.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the domaine’s own vineyards: 11 parcels scattered within the ambit of the village and this year it includes fruit from their vines in Les Enseigneres, which was damaged by hail. The bouquet is taut and linear with scents of cold limestone and a touch of apple blossom. It is nicely defined and just needs to muster a little more vigor. The palate is better than the nose with a keen line of acidity, plenty of mineral, green citrus fruit that cruises on the entry but then fans out nicely, finishing with more persistency than the nose would suggest. Fine. Straight after visiting his brother Jacques, I crossed the road to visit Domaine Francois Carillon. Francois began working with his father Louis at the domaine in 1988. While Jacques only sources fruit from his own vines, Francois’s modus operandi is slightly different since, as well as his own share of inherited vines, he vinifies fruit from contracted growers. He adopts a prudent approach to oak, adamantly stating that he never uses more than 25% and he did not purchase any new wood in 2012. His was a decent set of 2012s, although in this vintage they did not quite achieve the rarefied heights of his brother’s portfolio that generally demonstrated more precision and mineralite. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham and through Corney & Barrow (UK)

A finely knit fabric of silky, perfumed fruit emerges from the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet. Carillon’s Puligny is a wine of gorgeous textural finesse and harmony. An attractive melange of yellow stone fruit and bright, saline notes melds into the expressive finish. This is another terrific, entry-level bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. These 2010s are the first wines Francois Carillon has made from start to finish on his own. Based on the wines I tasted, it looks like Francois’s wines are a little silkier than his brother Jacques’s wines. I also tasted the 2011s, which are shaping up beautifully. As of 2011, the range will include two new premier crus from Chassagne-Montrachet: Clos St. Jean and Chenevottes, great news for fans of this ‘new’ domaine. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802