The 2019 Meursault Les Meix Chavaux opens in the glass with notes of pear, lime, crushed mint and spices. Medium-bodied, chiseled and chalky, with creditable depth at the core and a tangy finish, it's a nice wine in the making.

The 2015 Meursault Les Meix Chevaux, of which there are five barrels this year, has a rounded brioche and patisserie-scented bouquet that feels a little smudged at the moment. The palate is rounded and lightly honeyed on the entry with moderate acidity, but the finish seems a little predictable and lacks the tension than a cooler vintage would have imparted.

As usual, Fran?ois blended two-thirds of this vineyard into the Meursault Village whilst one-third (equivalent to three barrels) is bottled separately. The 2013 Meursault Meix Chavaux has an attractive touch of hazelnut and smoke on the nose that unfurls in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with orange peel and quince on the entry, good weight in the mouth and concludes with focused, lightly spiced fruit.

The 2011 Meursault Meix Chavaux has an attractive bouquet of pink grapefruit, melon and peach that gains vigor in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with good weight, although this never tries to be a sophisticated Meursault. Powerful in the mouth, it will offer commercial appeal, although it needs a little more complexity toward the spicy finish. It was a pleasure to return to one of my favorite Meursault growers, Francois Mikulski, a conscientious winemaker. His wines offer both broad commercial appeal and the complexity to satisfy aficionados. If I am being honest, I do not think Francois’ 2011s quite hit all the buttons, and occasionally displayed too much herbaceous character. However, they are keenly priced and from my own experience can mature deceptively well, though I think I would enjoy these wines in the flush of youth. Francois told me that he replaced his Gamay with Chardonnay, therefore 2012 will be the last vintage of the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. Since 2008, Francois has made three barrels of Meix Chavaux, which is orientated east/northeast. No known American importer.