There is just one barrel of the 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres, which is one more than the 2013. Since the vines are rented, Francois mentioned that this might turn out to be his final one. He hopes not. It has the most complex bouquet with touches of honeysuckle, cold stone and a little hazelnut that blossom with aeration. The palate is very well-balanced with nicely judged acidity. There is an effortless feel to this Perrieres with everything in its right place toward the composed, refined finish. This is very seductive. I have been visiting Francois Mikulski for a number of years. This is a reliable address for Meursault, although like numerous others his crops were depleted in 2012, resulting in the absence of some of this cuvees including some of his Meursault village crus that were blended together. Hail was also significant, reducing Volnay Santenots down to a negligible eight hectoliters per hectare. I tasted his wines from pre-blended bottles that were as close to the final blend as Francois could estimate. Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres is both delineated and harmonious on the nose with apple blossom and pear scents, although it needs to muster more vigor. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry that is struck through by a lovely citric thread of acidity and it builds nicely in the mouth to a vibrant, lemon zest and Clementine-tinged finish. Once the aromatics find their footing, this will be very fine. Drink 2014-2025. It was a pleasure to return to one of my favorite Meursault growers, Francois Mikulski, a conscientious winemaker. His wines offer both broad commercial appeal and the complexity to satisfy aficionados. If I am being honest, I do not think Francois’ 2011s quite hit all the buttons, and occasionally displayed too much herbaceous character. However, they are keenly priced and from my own experience can mature deceptively well, though I think I would enjoy these wines in the flush of youth. Francois told me that he replaced his Gamay with Chardonnay, therefore 2012 will be the last vintage of the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain. Since 2008, Francois has made three barrels of Meix Chavaux, which is orientated east/northeast. No known American importer.

Mikulski’s 2007 Meursault Perrieres – from three barrels worth of contract fruit, and his second from this site – mingles milled grain; diverse, bitter-sweet flowers; Normandy cider; and citrus oils in the nose and on a palate of palpable density. A vibratory palate interchange between luscious fruit and salty, chalky minerality leads to a finish whose tactile impingement of citrus rind, apple peel, and chalk is typical for this Mikulski collection and in no way diminishes the impression of sap or refreshing primary fruit. This ought to be worth following for close to a decade. Francois Mikulski began picking his 2007s the August 31 and harvest lasted a full two weeks. He performed “a bit more severe settling than normal” of solid matter to insure healthy musts, and while the vinous results are sometimes a bit texturally spare, as a group these wines boast consistently impressive distinctiveness of personality, energy, refreshment, and grip. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70

This year, Mikulski was able to fulfill a longstanding dream when a colleague agreed to sell him three barrels worth of 2006 Meursault Perrieres. Mikulski claims that the original agreement was for two, but he made such a convincing case that the thought of exceeding 33% new wood horrified him, that the grower was moved to generosity! An ethereally floral, honeyed, pear and cherry distillate bouquet ushers in a clear, pure, essence of orchard fruits shimmering with saline and chalky minerality. There is a subtle creaminess of texture here but scarcely any sensation of weight, as this virtually floats off into notably “cool” finishing fruit, and its mineral character – an impression no doubt reinforced by the wines moderate alcohol – refreshes as it intrigues. In lieu of a track record, I would hazard the guess that this will be a good candidate for 8-10 years aging. Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70