Gerard Boulay Chavignol, Sancerre, France

杰拉德·布雷酒莊夏維諾白葡萄酒

點擊次數：7263

Boulay’s regular cuvee of 2010 Sancerre opens with a Kimmeridgian aromatic announcement of oily, fusil, marine, and chicken stock, offering quite a vivid contrast with the corresponding 2011, which begins by proclaiming its Sauvignonism. Lemon and coriander figure here as well, leading to a bright, energetic, but texturally firm and athletically lean palate impression and a long, chalk- and oil-tinged finish. Those to whom a slightly austere side of Sancerre and an emphasis on mineral notes are especially desirable will enjoy this even more than my score suggests. I would plan on savoring it over the next 3-4 years. Gerard Boulay, like Thomas Labaille, has just moved into his own spacious new warehouse-like facility along the main road from Chavignol to Sancerre. He is thrilled to at last not be constrained by tight cellar facilities, as well as to have a common location where he can show and sell, as well as raise his young wines. There has seldom, if ever, been a finer pair of vintages back to back here than 2010 and 2011, which among other things fully vindicates Boulay’s decision – which might initially have seemed too eager – to proliferate progressively more expensive cuvees. At the same time, the basic bottlings from this address – in pink as well as white – remain consistently outstanding values. (Granted, 2009 is the exception that proves the rule.) It’s a pleasure to witness the buzz beginning at last to collect both in France and abroad around this diligent grower whose wines for so long far-excelled his modest reputation. (Full disclosure: In my previous profession, I was an early importer of Boulay’s wines ... but as such, I have also had chance to taste lots of old wines from this cellar, and thus know whereof I speak!) Boulay picked from September 3-14, 2011 and began on the 25th in 2010. As if to make amends for nature’s 2009 naughtiness and any complicity for which he might have felt responsible, Boulay’s bottlings in both subsequent vintages are notably low in alcohol, rarely exceeding 13%.Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Boulay’s 2008s on the other hand arguably benefit from being a bit gentler and more soft-spoken than the vintage norm. His regular cuvee of 2009 Sancerre is scented with caraway, orange zest, and ripe honeydew melon. Unusually broad and soft on the palate, it lacks the brightness, phenolic cut, sense of minerality, or finishing focus one normally expects from this bottling; still, there is a lot of appeal to the lusciously ripe melony fruit on display here, and no heat from the wine’s 14% alcohol. (The corresponding rose – a bottling from old vines that in many vintages is superb – did not get off so easily.). I would however plan to enjoy it over the coming year. A among those Sancerre growers whom I consider the odds-on favorites to succeed year after year, Gerard Boulay was one of the worst struck by the effects of hail and precipitant ripening, reflected in low acidity and high alcohol. He did not raise any portion of his special cuvees in cask, but kept them in tank to try to counteract the aforementioned effects of the vintage.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29