A wine from century-old vines, the 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques bursts from the glass with candied red and black cherries. Medium-bodied, broad, and supple in the attack as well as mid-palate, this offering is packed with black cherries, bacon, blackberries, and espresso beans. Its finish reveals some worrisome tannin that could ultimately be a problem. Projected maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

Cola, black cherry, and spices can be found in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux-St.-Jacques Cuvee Unique. This sweet, satin-textured beauty is replete with blackberries and assorted dark fruits. It is lush, with a tangy element that pops forth in the finish. This medium-bodied wine displays loads of beautifully ripened tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585