Produced from purchased grapes, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is serious and structured, enforcing a change of pace after the series of Puligny-Montrachet grands crus. Mingling notes of pear and citrus oil with hints of toasted bread, white flowers and praline, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and chalky, with palpable structuring dry extract and tangy balancing acids.

The most youthfully reserved wine in the cellar was the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, a promising bottling that opens up to reveal scents of citrus zest, dried white flowers, green apple and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with racy acids and prodigious levels of searingly chalky dry extract that lend this wine incredible structure.

The superb 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru exhibits a youthfully reserved bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, smoky reduction and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and phenolic, with chewy extract and almost tannic structure, that is more in keeping with a red wine, rather than a white. Long, focused and incisive, it's a mineral expression of Corton-Charlemagne that's built for the cellar.

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a clean, well defined bouquet with hints of almond and white chocolate, although I was seeking a little more personality to come through. The palate shows the nose how it's done and it is probably more indicative: spice, ginger, almond, citrus fruit and a touch of white peach. This is very complex and the more you remain in its presence, the more it wins you over. Cellar this for 4-5 years and you should have a very fine Corton Charlemagne on your hands, but it covets its secrets for now.