The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is more reserved than the Fuées, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of red berries, blood orange, spices, sweet soil tones and smoked duck. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's layered and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish.

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of wild berries and plums mingled with peonies, orange rind and exotic spices. Full-bodied, rich and muscular, it's deep and powerful, with imposing reserves of concentration, while remaining vibrant, even fine-boned despite its substance and plenitude.

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very promising, unwinding in the glass with notions of rapsberry, plums and blackberry fruit complemented by scents of peonies rose petals and blood orange. Full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's deeper and firmer than the Fuées despite their comparative proximity, with powdery tannins, lively acids and chalky back-end grip. This is a terrific proposition for the patient.

Deep and muscular, Mugnier's 2018 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru mingles aromas of cassis and wild berry fruit with nuances of woodsmoke, grilled squab, rich soil tones and violets. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and broad-shouldered, with a deep and multidimensional core, fine tannins and a long, mineral finish. This is a serious Bonnes Mares that will demand extended bottle age.

The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries and plums mingled with notions of peonies, grilled squab, spices and musk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with good concentration and ripe acids, framed by an ample endowment of fine, powdery tannin that renders this more structured than the corresponding Amoureuses but not in any sense more austere. While this is quite charming and expressive for young Bonnes Mares, at least a decade's patience will be warranted.