Notes of crisp green apple, white flowers and fresh mint introduce Collet's 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline wine that's racy and mineral this year.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a high point in the range, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp green apple, pear, peach, beeswax and oyster shell. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural but incisive, with good tension at the core and a tangy, floral finish.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a definite success, offering up attractive aromas of lemon and lime zest, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and succulent, with a satiny attack and an exotically fragrant finish. I suspect it will be at its best in the near term, but it's an attractive Montmains.

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains has a light, citric nose that needs more vigor. The palate is clean and demonstrated more vigor than Collet’s other premier crus, with a decent, simple spicy finish. Drink now-2016. Tasting through the 2012s and 2013s from Domaine Jean Collet & Fils, I was a little perturbed by the inconsistencies, although three just make the cut. Importers: The Source (CA), David Vincent (NJ), Scott Levy (LA) and Asonia Wines (DE)