Notes of green apple, white flowers, honey and oyster shell introduce the 2020 Chablis, a medium-bodied, bright wine that's pretty and saline, with a fine-boned profile and chalky grip on the finish. Deriving from some 15 hectares of vineyards, this is the estate's largest cuvée, and in 2020 it was harvested by machine at night to retain freshness.

Revisited a year later, Collet's 2017 Chablis is bursting with aromas of fresh peach, honeyed citrus fruit and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate with a bright but open-knit, charming profile and a saline finish. It's already showing well.

The 2016 Chablis is a real success in a challenging vintage, wafting from the glass with notes of Meyer lemon, citrus blossom, musky peach and honey. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with a gourmand core of fruit but bright balancing acids. Like many 2016s, it's less quintessentially "Chablisien" than its 2017 counterpart, but it's a beautiful wine.

The 2013 Chablis, which is raised in stainless steel for 8 months, appears a little smudged on the nose, although there are attractive light minty scents that emerge with time. The palate is fresh on the entry, but then the second half feels dilute and anonymous. Drink now. Tasting through the 2012s and 2013s from Domaine Jean Collet & Fils, I was a little perturbed by the inconsistencies, although three just make the cut. Importers: The Source (CA), David Vincent (NJ), Scott Levy (LA) and Asonia Wines (DE)