Domaine Jean Fournier Fixin Les Petits Crais, Cote de Nuits, France

簡·富尼爾酒莊菲克桑小柯海干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：3932

The 2016 Fixin les Petits Crais has a very appealing bouquet that races out of the blocks with crushed strawberry, raspberry, vanilla pod and subtle fennel aromas. The oak here is very well integrated (all used). The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, candied in quality, quite forward and sensual, a Fixin that I feel will be best enjoyed in the flush of its corpulent youth.

The 2015 Fixin les Petits Crais, which is around 50% whole bunch fruit, has an appealing nose of red cherries, crushed strawberry and a touch of bay leaf—not a feisty Fixin, more mild mannered. The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure. I appreciate the grip of this Fixin, the marn soils expressive on the minerally finish. This will be well-worth seeking out once in bottle.

The 2014 Fixin les Petits Crais has a delightful bouquet with raspberry preserve and cassis aromas, very well defined, graceful and seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very well judged acidity, harmonious and poised with fine tension on the quite structured finish. This is an excellent Fixin from Laurent Fournier and highly recommended.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Laurent Fournier’s proclivity for larger barrel sizes – one I generally applaud – and for racking his wines out of them after 14 months, exacerbated the CO2 retention in 2008s that had been late and long in malo. He terminated one early bottling run – in February, much later than normal, and just before my visit – when he realized the wine was too gaseous and unresolved to merit early enjoyment. Additionally, the aggressive acids and delayed malolactic transformation seemed to accentuate the extent to which some of his 2008s took on awkward flavors of oak that might nonetheless integrate with time. For these reasons, I must deliver a somewhat tentative report on wines that in recent years have proven to offer excellent value. Fournier started picking already on September 22, and said the work went quicker than in 2007 when ripeness in his sites was even less regular. (Fournier’s 2009s, incidentally, look to constitute his most impressive collection yet.) A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; Also a Cellar Door Selection, Columbia , MD; tel. (410) 309-6063

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Laurent Fournier is among the numerous growers to report having done quite a bit less sorting of fruit in 2006 than he found himself compelled to do in 2007. Yields were already small in his vineyards, he explained, and further reduced by sporadic hail (as one result of which, no Gevrey was bottled) and by selection in the vineyard that could not afford to be postponed until harvest and the mobilization of sorting tables. The quality of tannins is the weak point in a number of his universally relatively light-colored and light-bodied 2006s, although Fournier stuck with what has become his normal procedure of including a certain amount of stems in the fermentation, varying with site. All but the lightest cuvee here was bottled unfiltered, in an effort to keep from drying out fruit. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; Also a Cellar Door Selection, Columbia, MD; tel. (410) 309-6063