Gerin continues to expand his small estate, and they now offer a tasty 2007 Vin de Pays Viognier. Honeysuckle, peach, and tropical fruit notes are displayed in a fresh, lively style. Jean-Michel Gerin used to sell 30% of his production in the United States, but when I visited him in late 2007, he was no longer exporting his wines to America. He told me he was not getting paid, and I suspect he is only one of what will undoubtedly be many casualties of the international economic crisis. It is sad to see consumers being denied access to some of the best wines being made in France as well as elsewhere.Importer: Bond Street Imports (www. bondstreetimports.com)

The 2006 Viognier is pleasant, not nearly as good as the one from his neighbor, Michel Ogier, and is aged in tank and meant for easygoing drinking at a French bistro or brasserie.Gerin produces some very fine vins de pays.Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625, and David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

As for the Rhones, a good value is the 2005 Viognier, made just outside the appellation of Cote Rotie. Eighty percent of this wine spends time in tank, It offers a simple personality, but good fruit and acidity as well as medium body. One of the most innovative and progressive producers in Cote Rotie, Jean-Michel Gerin, has also branched out with a project in Priorat, Spain, turning out some very fine wines called Trio Infernal. His 2004s (of course, a fabulous vintage in Spain) are certainly outstanding wines, made from Grenache and very old-vine Carignan.Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625, and Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800