A competent, pleasant, but uninspiring 2007 Syrah Vin de Pays is slightly green and peppery, and lacks ripe fruit. Jean-Michel Gerin used to sell 30% of his production in the United States, but when I visited him in late 2007, he was no longer exporting his wines to America. He told me he was not getting paid, and I suspect he is only one of what will undoubtedly be many casualties of the international economic crisis. It is sad to see consumers being denied access to some of the best wines being made in France as well as elsewhere.Importer: Bond Street Imports (www. bondstreetimports.com)

The 2006 Syrah Vin de Pays, is aged in tank and meant for easygoing drinking at a French bistro or brasserie.Gerin produces some very fine vins de pays.Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625, and David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

A new effort for Jean-Michel Gerin, the 2004 Syrah VdP, aged primarily in old, neutral barriques, is a good, bistro-styled red meant for uncritical quaffing. It reveals herbal red and black fruits in a superficial format.Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463