Colombette's 1992 Grenache Vin de Pays-Coteaux du Libron would be an ideal restaurant wine, especially for patrons looking for an opulent, delicious, soft red that is neither heavy nor tannic. It reveals an attractive deep ruby color, a forthright, generous nose of sweet, jammy black-cherries, lush, heady, succulent flavors, low acidity, and a plump, mouthfilling finish. This silky-textured wine should drink well for 1-2 more years. Looking for outstanding wine bargains? This excellent 48-acre estate near the city of Bezier in the Languedoc-Roussillon region is turning out terrific wines at bargain-basement prices.Importer: a Daniel Johnnes Selection, Jeroboam Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415.