The concentrated, inky purple-hued 2010 Vacqueyras Hostellerie is composed of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah aged in tank. It exhibits copious aromas of black raspberries, licorice, graphite, forest floor, pepper and lavender. This complex, full-bodied Vacqueyras should drink nicely for a decade. (Not yet released)(Note: Readers should also see my previous Best Buy reviews of other Domaine La Garrigue, including one of the best values in Cotes du Rhone, their Cuvee Romaine, which is essentially declassified Gigondas.) Domaine La Garrigue, whose large vineyard was established in the mid-1800s, is at the top of its game. It is now controlled by the sixth generation of the Bernard family, in this case, Maxime Bernard, who is also the president of the Syndicat of Vacqueyras.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The opaque purple-colored 2009 Vacqueyras Cuvee de l’Hostellerie (75% Grenache and 25% Syrah aged in concrete) possesses high tannins, massive concentration and a more modern style. Despite the fact that Bernard told me no new oak was used, the wine smelled like some was present. Perhaps one of the foudres was replaced and hence the subtle impression of new oak in the background. This cuvee boasts huge fruit, density and richness. It will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age and last for 10-15 years. (Not yet released)Maxime Bernard, the president of the Syndicate of Vignerons in Vacqueyras, is also the conscientious proprietor of Domaine La Garrigue, one of the largest family-owned estates (90 acres) in Vacqueyras. This family also owns the charming Provencal restaurant called Les Florets in Gigondas. Bernard tends to keep his wine in foudre and cement tanks much longer than the selections done by his American importer reflect. Consequently, those of us in the USA tend to get the wine bottled earlier when it is more powerful and rich in fruit than purchasers elsewhere in the world. His 2009s look sensational. The Bernard family owns approximately 8 acres in Gigondas, all 60-80 years of age.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The impressively built 2007 Vacqueyras Cuvee de l’Hostellerie (75% Grenache and 25% Syrah) is slightly less exuberant than its sibling, but it possesses admirable purity, a deep ruby/plum/purple color, and notes of bouquet garni, licorice, pepper, and black fruits. Some tannin in the finish suggests it will need a year or two of cellaring after it’s bottled. It should keep for 6-8 years. I tend to prefer the earlier-bottled wines from this important estate, which has 150 acres in Vacqueyras (one of the appellation’s largest).Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2006 Vacqueyras Cuvee de l’Hostellerie is one sexy Vacqueyras, with good acidity, very ripe tannin, a sumptuous mouthfeel, and loads of fruit and texture. This is a heady wine to drink over the next 5-6 years. Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565