The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane unwinds in the glass with aromas of white currants, flowers, fresh mint and bread dough, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate with a textural attack that segues into a taut, racy mid-palate and a precise, chalky finish. From a parcel that borders Pierre Morey's Meursault Perrières, this cuvée really seems to have found its identity in the last few years.

The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane is also a touch reductive out of the gates, unwinding to reveal aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, hazelnuts, dried white flowers and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with lively acids and a long, saline finish, it's a seamless, elegant wine from a parcel located just above Pierre Morey's Meursault Perrières.

Mingling aromas of orange oil and Anjou pear with hints of white flowers, buttery pastry and toasted nuts, the 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane is medium to full-bodied, chalky and incisive, with a bright spine of acidity and a mineral finish. This has turned out nicely and should reward a bit of bottle age.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane offers up aromas of green apples, tart Anjou pear, spring flowers and mint. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and chewy extract—Leflaive performed a green harvest on this young vines this year—underpinned by juicy acids and concluding with a pure finish. This is a promising Meursault in the making.

Tasted from bottle, the 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane offers up a pretty bouquet of crisp Anjou pear, white flowers, hazelnut cream and wet stones that's a little high-toned in profile if it's served too cold, though any questions of excess volatility are dispelled as it approaches room temperature. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, delicately textural and incisive, with brisk acids, a tight-knit but nicely concentrated core and a precise, racy finish. Somewhat austere in profile, this is a promising candidate for bottle age. This was one of the parcels that escaped the 2016 frosts.