In what was a terrific vintage for ripeness and richness, Les Gouberts offerings range from a straightforward, soft, pleasant but compact, monolithic 1990 Cotes du Rhone, to medium-bodied, slightly richer and riper selections from the Cotes du Rhone villages of Sablet and Beaumes de Venise. In the past the Beaumes de Venise has been one of Cartier's best wines and top values, but the 1990 appears to have been excessively processed and filtered. Although it exhibits fine color, the finish is lean and compact. After a serious discussion with Cartier about excessive fining and filtration, I sensed he regretted the degree to which he filtered his 1990s. Various importers.

Domaines Les Gouberts, run by proprietor Jean-Pierre Cartier, is one of the best sources for Cotes du Rhone, particularly the cuvee from old vines Cartier owns near the village of Beaumes de Venise. The 1989 Cotes du Rhone-Beaumes de Venise exhibits greater muscle, richness, and intensity, no doubt because this wine is made from old vines and the yields are lower. This big, rich wine could easily be taken for a top-notch Gigondas. An Alain Junguenet Selection, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ.