In what was a terrific vintage for ripeness and richness, Les Gouberts offerings range from a straightforward, soft, pleasant but compact, monolithic 1990 Cotes du Rhone, to medium-bodied, slightly richer and riper selections from the Cotes du Rhone villages of Sablet and Beaumes de Venise. After a serious discussion with Cartier about excessive fining and filtration, I sensed he regretted the degree to which he filtered his 1990s. Various importers.

Domaines Les Gouberts, run by proprietor Jean-Pierre Cartier, is one of the best sources for Cotes du Rhone, particularly the cuvee from old vines Cartier owns near the village of Beaumes de Venise. The basic 1989 Cotes du Rhone displays good dark color, ripe, peppery fruitiness, soft texture, and an easy-going, amiable personality. Drink it over the next several years. An Alain Junguenet Selection, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ.