The 2013 Morey St Denis Vieilles Vignes, from three parcels around the appellation, offers a pure blackcurrant and blueberry bouquet that is much more intense than the Rue de Vergy. The aromatics come straight out of the glass and give you a big hug. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile, edgy tannin, which Virgile attributed to the 60% whole cluster and the small size of the berries. This is strict, linear and serious with superb mineralité on the finish that feels terse at the moment, but offers great sustain in the mouth. This is a minor chord that will turn major after bottling. Don't ignore this gem.

The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes comes from three lieux-dits and includes 50% whole cluster fruit and 30% new oak. This has an earthier nose at first, with stony, brambly black fruit, briary and wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, lifted black and red fruit, before demonstrating fine finesse and delineation towards the long and poised finish. This will drink well for 10 to 15 years. My second visit to see Virgile Lignier, cousin of Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier, did not go to plan. With the winery seemingly empty, I wondered whether he had forgotten our rendezvous. I soon discovered that the original domaine is tucked away within the village of Morey Saint Denis, and that like many, expansion has meant that they had to move elsewhere to make their wines. Virgile finally appeared driving a forklift truck loading wines destined for my homeland (incidentally I wonder how many Bordeaux proprietors have such a license?) Still, we eventually sat down to taste his 2012s that had been racked mid-September and were now in tank. I have to admit, having heard so many bon mots about Lignier-Michelot, the 2011s had not swept me off my feet back last July, though I could see the potential. However, the 2012s are a different matter and showed more complexity and nuance. The harvest here commenced a little later than others on 27 September, though not as tardy as Laurent Ponsot up the road.

The 2011 Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes comes from three parcels, including plots of 65-year-old vines with 50% whole cluster fermentation. It has a generous floral bouquet with dried rose and violet petals infusing the dark cherry and plum fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry as well as plenty of juicy black fruit, though it needs a little more tension toward the finish. Still, this is very fine. Drink 2014-2020. This was my first visit to Domaine Lignier-Michelot, located on the eastern side of the RN47 in Morey Saint Denis. The winery itself is undergoing reconstruction with a new underground cellar on the way. Virgile Lignier-Michelot, the appended surname from his mother's side, guided me through the wines that displayed good volume for the vintage, packed full of fruit. Perhaps what the wines did not possess when compared to say Hubert Lignier, is that beguiling finesse and subtlety, but they are facets that can be fine-tuned. Importer: Frederick Wildman Selections; New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2010 Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes comes across as floral and ethereal, in large part owing to the use of 50% whole clusters. Sweet spices and rose petals add complexity on the layered finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2009 Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes is a deep, muscular wine imbued with the essence of blackberries, blueberries, spices and licorice. The fruit wraps around the palate beautifully in this round, sensual wine. Despite the wine’s richness, this also reveals impressive freshness, minerality and length, which Lignier attributes to a high percentage of whole clusters relative to some of his wines from previous years. The Vieilles Vignes is made from parcels in Chenevery, Tres Girard and Cognees, with an average age above 50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Virgile Lignier’s 2009s show notable intensity and ripeness, but also preserve quite a bit of freshness through the use of whole clusters, which reach as much as 100% in two wines. The Bourgogne and Chambolle were bottled in December 2010. I tasted all of the other wines from tank. Bottling was scheduled for the end of March 2011. Readers will find notes on a handful of 2008s on www.erobertparker.com. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including : Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404