Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, France

莫雷父子酒莊凱樂(lè)瑞（夏山-蒙哈榭一級(jí)園）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：5175

Still a little shut down after its recent bottling, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets opens in the glass with scents of minty green pear, orange oil, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy but decidedly shy. The underlying balance, however, is very promising, and I suspect this will simply blossom after a year or two in bottle.

A charismatic style, open-textured and inviting, this evokes peach, apple pie, honey and baking spice notes. Expansive and creamy on the palate, with balancing acidity and beautiful harmony. Fine length. Drink now through 2026. 115 cases made, 18 cases imported.

The 2015 Chassagne Montrachet 1Er Cru les Caillerets offers the most "terroir" expression on the nose thanks to those calcareous soils imparting stoniness and mineralité. I like the precision and poise here. The palate is crisp and lively with some lovely white peach and nectarine notes, even a touch of papaya. Yes, it leans towards the tropical side of things but the energy and tension here keeps everything in balance. This could be one of the domaine's best releases in 2015.

This had just been bottled and not surprisingly there were plenty of matchstick and petrol characters in evidence. Otherwise there is a somewhat finer mouth feel to the much more mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that deliver fine depth and sneaky good length. This isn't as refined as it usually is but the quality of the underlying material should ultimately make for a very fine effort.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1Er Cru Caillerets, which comes from two parcels, has a much more austere, stony, reserved bouquet than the flattering 2014 Chassagne Virondot -- but still very pure and well defined. The palate is taut and poised with well judged acidity, tensile and focused, just a hint of nutmeg showing through on the finish. This is another fine 2014 from the domaine.