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酒款
仁益源酒莊

Domaine Marcel Deiss Englegarten Premier Cru, Alsace, France
點(diǎn)擊次數(shù):6795

酒款類型:
酒莊:
苔絲美人酒莊
產(chǎn)區(qū):
法國 France > 阿爾薩斯 Alsace
釀酒葡萄:
雷司令  
酒款年份:
NV年
酒款綜述OVERVIEW
關(guān)于“Domaine Marcel Deiss Englegarten Premier Cru, Alsace, France ”的酒款綜述
權(quán)威評分SCORE
關(guān)于“Domaine Marcel Deiss Englegarten Premier Cru, Alsace, France”的評分
酒款年份
評分者
分?jǐn)?shù)
評分時(shí)間
2009年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
88
 
Marjoram, black pepper, and struck flint in the nose of Deiss’s 2009 Engelgarten – which was bottled at one year – set the tone for a minerally, pungent, tactilely gripping palate performance. There are tightness and an alkaline cast to the finish – which is virtually dry – that need to give way eventually to something more endearing if this is to become compelling. Right now it is definitely more formidable than loveable. Plan to revisit in a year or two and not judge aging potential before then. Jean-Michel Deiss’s chance-taking, late-harvesting attitude made for a 2009 collection at times excessive as measured by one or another parameter, but no one can fault its wines for the lack of personality that afflicts so many others from that vintage. Deiss was at pains to assure me that his single-vineyard 2009s would be more expressive and harmonious by autumn of 2011 although I am skeptical that the sort of awkwardness some of these wines exhibited last November will dissipate, and unfortunately, press of time and wine renders it impossible for me to taste many of the most prestigious Alsace wines twice. Deiss’s belief that diverse cepages which grow together – under the influence of the parcel’s terroir and of one another – tend to ripen together, was certainly tested in both 2009 and 2008, but even someone skeptical of that claim – and we skeptics are surely in the majority – must admit that to the extent under- and over-ripe (or botrytis-inflected) aspects coexist in one and the same wine, this need not always manifest itself as disharmony but sometimes instead can generate welcome tension, a tension especially beneficial in the context of noticeable sweetness, and something like seems to have happened with the exciting 2008s at this address. Jean-Michel Deiss remarked – apropos the preponderance of residually sweet wines at his estate (like so many in Alsace) – that with his vineyard and cellar environment, if he really wants a wine to go to dryness, he needs to work with it in barrique, otherwise he would need in most years to employ cultured yeasts, something he eschews – as he puts it – “on moral, not just aesthetic grounds, because I am not about to serve the industry that produces them.” That said, the healthy fruit and happy yeasts of 2009 as well as the high acidity of 2008 conspired to render more of the wines from these collections dry-tasting than is usual chez Deiss. Incidentally, Deiss has begun printing “premier cru” on the labels of those from among his single-vineyard blends that are not from officially grand cru-rated sites. Perhaps he feels emboldened to challenge the authorities not only because a certain amount of contrariness is in his nature, but because he has been deputized to take the lead in organizing growers around deciding what will define and constitute in Alsace the “A.O.P., “I.G.P.,” and other newly EU-mandated wine categories. Mathieu Deiss, incidentally, is taking on an increasing role at his family’s estate, and was almost as eager to discuss the wines and vines on the occasion of my November visit as his notoriously eager and eloquent father. (For further information on Deiss’s philosophy, his sites and their cepages, consult my reports in issues 175 and 188.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
2008年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
91
 
A site-typical but in this case especially prominent flinty pungency tweaks the nose from Deiss's 2008 Engelgarten (a blend of Riesling, Muscat, and Pinots on gravel), along with brown spices, lemon zest, chamomile, and mint. Slightly less come-hither than the corresponding Langenberg and virtually dry, this delivers cut and refreshment as well as formidable mineral, spice, citrus, and herb finishing concentration. What's more, it projects a lovely sense of levity. I expect it will drink well for a decade. Jean-Michel Deiss's chance-taking, late-harvesting attitude made for a 2009 collection at times excessive as measured by one or another parameter, but no one can fault its wines for the lack of personality that afflicts so many others from that vintage. Deiss was at pains to assure me that his single-vineyard 2009s would be more expressive and harmonious by autumn of 2011 although I am skeptical that the sort of awkwardness some of these wines exhibited last November will dissipate, and unfortunately, press of time and wine renders it impossible for me to taste many of the most prestigious Alsace wines twice. Deiss's belief that diverse cepages which grow together -"under the influence of the parcel's terroir and of one another" tend to ripen together, was certainly tested in both 2009 and 2008, but even someone skeptical of that claim "and we skeptics are surely in the majority - must admit that to the extent under- and over-ripe (or botrytis-inflected) aspects coexist in one and the same wine, this need not always manifest itself as disharmony but sometimes instead can generate welcome tension, a tension especially beneficial in the context of noticeable sweetness, and something like seems to have happened with the exciting 2008s at this address. Jean-Michel Deiss remarked -"apropos the preponderance of residually sweet wines at his estate (like so many in Alsace) " that with his vineyard and cellar environment, if he really wants a wine to go to dryness, he needs to work with it in barrique, otherwise he would need in most years to employ cultured yeasts, something he eschews " as he puts it - "on moral, not just aesthetic grounds, because I am not about to serve the industry that produces them."- That said, the healthy fruit and happy yeasts of 2009 as well as the high acidity of 2008 conspired to render more of the wines from these collections dry-tasting than is usual chez Deiss. Incidentally, Deiss has begun printing -premier cru- on the labels of those from among his single-vineyard blends that are not from officially grand cru-rated sites. Perhaps he feels emboldened to challenge the authorities not only because a certain amount of contrariness is in his nature, but because he has been deputized to take the lead in organizing growers around deciding what will define and constitute in Alsace the "A.O.P., I.G.P.," and other newly EU-mandated wine categories. Mathieu Deiss, incidentally, is taking on an increasing role at his family's estate, and was almost as eager to discuss the wines and vines on the occasion of my November visit as his notoriously eager and eloquent father. (For further information on Deiss's philosophy, his sites and their cepages, consult my reports in issues 175 and 188.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
2008年
Bettane et Desseauve 該雜志由法國兩位著名酒評家邁克·貝塔那(Michel Bettane)和西里·德索夫(Thierry Desseauve)創(chuàng)辦。
《法國葡萄酒向?qū)щs志》
17
 
2008年
Stephen Tanzer 《國際葡萄酒窖》(International Wine Cellar)雜志的編輯和出版商,也是《福布斯指南》(Forbes)的葡萄酒專欄作家。
史蒂芬·坦?jié)?
91
 
2007年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
89
 
Representing a field blend in gravel soil favoring Riesling, Muscat, and the Pinots, the Deiss 2007 Engelgarten is pungently smoky in the nose and – like its 2006 counterpart – favors citrus rind and oils rather than the juicy freshness of citrus; displays an almost severe concentration, but then finishes with a depth and diversity of citrus, animal, and mineral notes that is quite fascinating, its sweetness more collaborative than in the 2006. Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
本酒款酒莊資料ABOUT WINERY
苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss)
苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss) 苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss)是法國阿爾薩斯(Alsace)產(chǎn)區(qū)的酒莊之一,位于離里博維萊(Ribeauville)3公里遠(yuǎn)的一個(gè)叫做貝格海姆(Bergheim)的村莊內(nèi)。   苔絲美人酒莊的主人是一個(gè)歷史可追溯至1744年的古老釀酒師家族。20世紀(jì)初時(shí),年僅18歲的該家族成員馬塞爾•戴斯(Marcel Deiss)選擇了離開故… 【詳情】
本酒款釀酒葡萄資料ABOUT GRAPE
雷司令(Riesling)
雷司令(Riesling) 典型香氣:椴花、青蘋果、葡萄、檸檬、青檸、柑橘、桃子、杏、菠蘿、芒果、蜂蜜、烘烤和煙熏等 起源:雷司令(Riesling)是德國最古老的葡萄品種之一,該品種于1435年第一次在文獻(xiàn)中被提及,很可能起源于德國的萊茵高(Rheingau)地區(qū)。DNA檢測結(jié)果表明,雷司令與西歐最古老、多產(chǎn)的葡萄品種之一——白高維… 【詳情】
本酒款產(chǎn)區(qū)資料ABOUT REGION
阿爾薩斯(Alsace) 圖片來源:www.hugel.fr 阿爾薩斯(Alsace)位于法國的東北角,與德國相鄰。產(chǎn)區(qū)形狀狹長,分為南北兩部分:上萊茵(Haut-Rhin)和下萊茵(Bas-Rhin)。產(chǎn)區(qū)西邊是著名的孚日山脈(Vosges),東邊則是萊茵河(Rhine River)。這條曲折的萊茵河正好成為了德法天然的國土分界線。   從文化上… 【詳情】
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