The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées has a reticent bouquet that demanded a lot of coaxing from the glass. It remained a little taciturn with broody blackberry and raspberry scents, confit cherries emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. It clams up a little toward the second half that is driven by the wood tannins at the moment. As I remarked last year apropos the 2015, I wish the new oak would allow the great terroir to have its say.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées, which is aged in 60% new oak, has a well-defined bouquet, although at the moment it is dominated by that level of new oak. The palate is again balanced and focused, and demonstrates good substance and grip. The new oak does create a carapace that makes it difficult to gauge the fruit profile or the terroir underneath. Hopefully that will be absorbed with a few years in bottle.

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées was matured in 50% new oak and 50% one-year old. There is just a very slight reduction on the nose, but otherwise there are appreciable pure black cherry and iodine scents that waft from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite supple tannin. This feels silky in the mouth, very harmonious with blackcurrant and boysenberry jam on the intense finish. Very fine Michel!

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees comes from vines that border the Richebourg owned by Michel’s brother Bernard (see Gros Frere & Soeur). It has quite a powerful, intense bouquet with black fruit, dark plum and touches of dried violet petals that shows impressive finesse. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe, almost sinewy tannins that lend this premier cru very good weight. What it needs is a little more tension and terroir to filter through on the finish. Still, there is a lovely tingle of lemongrass on the aftertaste to be enjoyed: another fine Aux Brulees to add to many others this year. It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).

The 2011 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees comes from a parcel vines that lines of the other side of the road of Richebourg, where other members of the Gros family make their Grand Crus (Michel inherited Clos des Reas instead of a slice of Richebourg.) Matured in 50% new oak, it has a rounded, well-defined bouquet with wild strawberry, raspberry pastille, pot pourri and light cedar aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit on the entry. It is well-balanced and lithe in the mouth, although I am looking for a little more tension and complexity toward the finish. Perhaps that will evolve in bottle? Two doors down from Anne Gros is cousin Michel. I have been visiting here for a number of years and Michel always makes thoughtfully crafted wines. I sometimes do find them a little on the oaky side, which occasionally denudes them of some finesse, but they are very consistent. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com