Matured half in new oak and half one-year-old, the 2013 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru was quite bolshie and saturnine on the nose, like a dog warding strangers away at the garden gate. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky opening, very pure, with macerated small red cherries and bilberry, relatively light in the mouth compared to previous vintages, but pretty and focused. I just would like it to manifest a little more personality, something to say by the time of bottling.

The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru is the usual blend of two parcels: “Les Vigne-Rondes” and “Les Murgers” and sees 50% new oak. The nose seems just a little befuddled at first, trying to locate its focus, and it just seems a little light compared to the village crus. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and nicely judged acidity. It feels a little conservative at the moment, afraid to put a foot wrong when it just needs to “chill out” a little. This is a well-made Nuits Saint Georges, but it needs more personality and conviction by the time of bottling. It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).

The 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru comes from two lieux-dits, Aux Vignerondes and Aux Murgers which together comes to 0.33-hectares that equates to four or five barrels. Matured in 60% new oak, it has an attractive pine-scented bouquet with lifted dark cherry and black plum fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy opening, a fine line of acidity with a composed finish that handles that new oak with style. It deserves a couple of years in bottle to fully meld together. Drink 2015-2022. Two doors down from Anne Gros is cousin Michel. I have been visiting here for a number of years and Michel always makes thoughtfully crafted wines. I sometimes do find them a little on the oaky side, which occasionally denudes them of some finesse, but they are very consistent. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com

Heady floral, blackberry, chestnut oak and cherry fruit nose. Suave, rounded and juicy with plenty of fruit, guts and character. Doesn''t dazzle but is pretty.