The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which had just finished its malolactic and due for racking, is matured in 50% new oak. The nose is controlled, sedate and focused – not complex but imbued with a sense of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with pointed, slightly sharp tannins that cut through the black cherry fruit. A little angular at present, it should meld together nicely by the time of bottling.

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Village is a blend of four parcels, the most important in Les Argillieres, just a stone’s through from Musigny. It has a refined, languid bouquet at first; offering crushed strawberry, cranberry and mineral scents that take a few minutes to coalesce in the glass. The palate has a smooth silky entry with well-judged acidity and a lovely succulent, spice tinged finish that is very composed and focused. This is another very fine wine from Michel Gros. It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).

The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Villages also comes from four parcels that are vinified together. It has a perfumed minty bouquet that shows more cohesion than Michel’s other Village Crus, while the palate has a rounded entry, sinewy tannins and a lifted, dark berry and black olive compote finish that is clean and fresh. Drink 2014-2020. Two doors down from Anne Gros is cousin Michel. I have been visiting here for a number of years and Michel always makes thoughtfully crafted wines. I sometimes do find them a little on the oaky side, which occasionally denudes them of some finesse, but they are very consistent. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com

Exquisitely perfumed nose, a distillation of red fruits. Full-bodied and concentrated, but h a light touch, showing intensity and purity rather than power and opulence. Excellent balance and length.