A garrigue-like resinous herbal overtone to ripe cherry marks the nose of Lafarges’ 2008 Pommard Pezerolles, which comes to the palate with a striking combination of bright, tart, yet ripe fruit; broth-like mineral suffusion; and persistent herbal pungency. Lafarge senior considers Pezerolles – or at least, his – inherently more forward and expressive early on than wine from most of his other appellations, but I have to insist that this site is simply having a terrific vintage in 2008 and that here is another case in point. Polished in texture, long-lived, and vibratory – with fruit pit and mineral notes adding to its finishing dynamic – this should be worth following for 15-20 years. Unfortunately, at 20 hectoliters per hectare thanks to selective picking of an already tiny crop, there is only a single barrel to be had. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are understandably enthusiastic about their admittedly millerandage-, hail-, and triage-reduced 2008 crop, but insisted that rot was not a significant problem. And even the hail, they report, was minimal in their portions of Clos des Chenes and Caillerets, being largely confined to certain village and generic sectors. All of the 2008s here (even of minor appellation) were still in barrel when I tasted them in March, and would, as usual at this address, be assembled only immediately before bottling. Malos were late here by the estate’s normal standards, but still largely finished by August, and the Lafarges insist that they did not have musts with unusually high levels of malic acidity, in regard to which Frederic observes that a matter of just a few days in picking date in 2008 could make a big chemical difference. Michel Lafarge opines that one needs several months after malo to let a young red Burgundy collect and express itself before one ought even to contemplate bottling, in light of which he cannot comprehend – much less agree with – the many growers who bottled 2008s during the winter. He also emphatically resists the suggestion that 2008 is, in any sense, a throwback to the old normalcy – a subject on which Michel Lafarge has to be one of Burgundy’s most seasoned experts – pointing out that there wasn’t really any need to chaptalize the 2008s, which came in largely in the upper 12s. (Alcohol levels were slightly higher in the impressive 2007s, nearly all of which were picked the first week in September.)A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Mincemeat-like carnal, spicy, zesty, and ripe, berryish notes rise from the glass of Lafarge 2006 Pommard Pezerolles. Plum and blackberry studded with brown spices and underlain by roasted meat fill out a surprisingly plush palate, and minty and resinous flavors add to an already complex array. To be sure, though, there is plenty of tannic structure here – though relatively well-covered by fruit – and one can anticipate at least ten or a dozen years of satisfaction. This was the last-bottled of its collection, and I am wondering whether the finish in particular will have gained short term from a bit more rest.Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

The blackberry-scented 2002 Pommard Pezerolles has enormous depth and concentration yet also reveals a somewhat foursquare, rustic character. Jam-packed with roasted cassis, herbs, rocks, and blackberries, it is a brooding, backward wine. Projected maturity: 2008-2018.A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers

Not surprisingly, Michel Lafarge's only parcel spared from the hail storm produced his finest wine of the vintage. Medium to dark ruby-colored, the 2001 Pommard-Pezerolles bursts from the glass with scents of black cherries. Big, rich, lush, and harmonious, it is a medium-bodied wine with loads of red and black cherries. This velvety-textured effort has great depth of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Projected maturity: now-2011. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers.