The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées displayed an austerity in the same vein as the Maltoie, yet one senses more intention here. Gut instinct says that this just needs bottle age to show what it can do. The palate seems to confirm that. It delivers the energy of the Vergers on the entry, the acidity finely tuned and it gently builds towards an refined, lightly spiced finish that feels very natural, a saline note lingering on the aftertaste. This is a very fine Chassagne-Montrachet that should yield several years of pleasure.

The 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaumées has a delicate nose that takes time to unfold in the glass. It never quite takes full flight, but there are attractive cold limestone and lemon peel scents to be discerned. The palate is very composed with a fine bead of acidity, gently unfolding towards the finish with hazelnut and dried honey notes. This has good potential and probably the best from the domaine this year.

The 2013 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumees has a touch more vivacity and citrus notes compared to the Maltroie alongside. The palate is smooth in the mouth, the acidity well judged and it crescendos toward a very harmonious and lightly honeyed finish that should be very seductive once in bottle.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumees has an attractive chalk-scented bouquet with fine definition and vigor. This opens up nicely in the glass, revealing subtle sea spray scents. The palate is well-balanced with a vigorous opening: pink grapefruit, citrus lemon and a touch of nectarine that fan out towards the finish. This is one of Niellon’s better premier crus in 2012. Apparently there is a Batard-Montrachet this year, although it was ravaged by mildew and the quantity was so small that it was not shown when I visited the domaine. As an admirer of Michel Niellon wines, especially after a divine Chevalier-Montrachet 1986 earlier this year, it is with heavy heart that I have to report that this appears to be one producer unbalanced and compromised by the inclemency of 2012. Hail severely damaged several of their prime vineyards. Batard-Montrachet was reduced down to a nub, while propitious premier crus the calibre of “Chenevottes” was akin to a child being pushed off their bicycle. In Burgundy, I am afraid there are no stabilizers. Still, on September 19 they harvested what they could and bottled everything, including their Chevalier-Montrachet, at the beginning of September. Michel’s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and grandson Mathieu took me through these wines, which seemed to lack the vigor and precision that I found elsewhere and within the domaine’s own wines in previous vintages. I am sure they will be back on form next year. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600

Niellon’s 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees wraps around the palate with nectarines, flowers, spices and mint. It shows the richness and viscosity of the vintage, but with brighter, more floral shades of fruit that avoid heaviness. Like all the Niellon wines in 2010, the Chaumees is medium in body, but it nevertheless possesses fine intensity and balance. A hint of sweet spices lingers on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Michel Niellon told me the key to the vintage was choosing the right picking date, especially after a thunderstorm in Santenay on September 12 forced many growers to pick a few days earlier than they had originally expected. Yields are down 15-30%, depending on the appellation, mostly because of the irregular flowering. The domaine’s parcels had a high percentage of coulure (shatter) and millerandage (shot berries). According to Niellon, it is the uneven size of the berries that marks the vintage, as the smaller berries gave concentration, while the larger berries contributed acidity. As was the case throughout the region, the malos were quite slow to develop, and a few of these wines were bottled a little later than usual, something that is now possible because of Niellon’s huge warehouse facility in an industrial section of Chassagne a few kilometers from the old, historic part of the village. The 2010s were aged in barrel until just before the 2011 harvest, at which time Niellon bottled the Chassagne-Montrachet, Champ Gains, Vergers and Chaumees. The Clos St. Jean, Maltroie, Chevalier and Batard (which I did not taste) were bottled in October and November 2011. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600