More concentrated than this producer's other Crozes, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage la Chasseliere is a gorgeous effort, filled with black cherries and blackberries, all backed by notes of black olives, peppery spice and licorice. It's medium to full-bodied but not overweight or over-extracted, with a rich, velvety—almost creamy—feel on the palate and a long, long finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Hints of smoke, cracked pepper and violets appear on the nose of the 2019 Crozes Hermitage la Chasseliere, which comes from plots in Mercurol and Post de l'Isère. It's medium to full-bodied, suave and polished on the palate, with lingering notes of blueberries, black cherries and licorice on the long, silky finish.

From plots in Mercurol and Post de l'Isère, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage la Chasseliere ratchets up the intensity, delivering more depth and richness than the earlier-bottled cuvées. Dried spices and cracked pepper accent black cherries and cassis in this full-bodied, velvety wine. Ripe and long on the finish, it should drink well for 5-6 years.

Bottled just 11 days prior to my visit, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage la Chasseliere comes from 40-year-old vines grown in the sectors of Pont de l'Isere and Mercurol. It spent 12 months in used barrels and an oak cuve and offers next-level intensity compared to the other Crozes-Hermitage's at this address. Rich, tannic blackberries cascade over the full-bodied palate, adding hints of dark chocolate and espresso on the chewy finish.

From 30- to 40-year-old vines near the Post de l'Isere, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage la Chasseliere offers a bold mouthful of blackberry fruit. It's medium to full-bodied, with supple tannins and mouthwatering acidity on the slightly warm finish. Drink it over the next 5 years.