The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru was a touch reduced out of the glass, opening to reveal aromas of smoked meats, plums, orange rind and spices. Full-bodied and broad-shouldered but appropriately reserved, it's a deep, textural wine of considerable authority, so I look forward to revisiting it in bottle.

The 2016 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked at the end of the first week in October, although there was nothing Christophe could do about losing half the crop to frost. It has a very perfumed, floral, pure bouquet with ebullient redcurrant, cranberry and pomegranate aromas suffused with mineral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fine tannin. The is an understated Chambertin built around poise and tension, long but need deep like the 2015, although you can feel the mouth tingling with the mineralité 30 seconds after the wine has departed. Excellent.

The 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru was slightly deeper in color than the Clos de Bèze this year, the nose perhaps more intense but just as pure: dark cherries, red plum, a hint of oyster shell and wet limestone. Yet I was more smitten by the Clos de Bèze that has the sensuality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite edgy tannin. This could be described as a tensile Chambertin, full of energy, supremely well focused but remaining linear and strict towards the finish, whereas the Clos de Bèze fans out. It may take several years to hit its stride - it will be fascinating to compare with the other Grand Crus.

The 2013 Chambertin Grand Cru, which like the Clos de Bèze is matured in 30% new oak, has a tighty-wound bouquet with broody red berry fruit, oyster shell and granitic scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip. This seems more linear than the Clos-de-Bèze at the moment, but there is very good depth and a precise saline finish that will obviously need time and patience. I hope that it gains just a little more flesh by the time of bottling as this is a very fine Chambertin in the making.