The 2009 Marsannay Echezots shows the plumpness and juiciness of the year while retaining considerable freshness, minerality and vibrancy. This is a beautiful wine in this important vintage for Marsannay. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Philippe Charlopin showed me a large number of wines during my recent visit. This is a solid range of wines from top to bottom, although I can’t help thinking Charlopin might be better served by focusing on fewer wines and aiming for the higher level of quality that informs his finest bottles. The majority of these wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit. In 2009 fermentations lasted from 20-25 days. Most of the wines saw 30% new oak, although the Grand Crus saw 50% new barrels. The house style favors a rich, opulent expression of fruit.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The Charlopin 2006 Marsannay Les Echezeaux is shockingly dark in color and densely-concentrated for both its appellation and vintage. Ripe dark cherry and plum dusted with cocoa powder inform a plush, rich palate leading to a long finish I find a bit short on charm, but undeniably impressive in its rather flamboyant (and, indeed, Charlopin-typical) way. I'd be inclined to enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520