Citrus oil, fusil, and overtly chalk dusty notes in the nose of Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot (of which there were only three barrels) lead to another palate of palpable density, glycerol richness, and bright refreshment. Hints of tart red berry add site-typical interest, and this finishes with impressive length, incorporating piquancy of fruit pit and toasted nuts and successfully integrating its spicy wood notes. It is not noteworthy for clarity or elegance, but should benefit from a couple of years in bottle and probably be best drunk soon thereafter. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524