The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltoie has a refined bouquet, subtle but gaining vigor in the glass, offering scents of citrus fruit, smoke and dried apricot, a tropical undercurrent that might be more conspicuous once in bottle. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, as much tension as the Clos Saint-Jean but for me, showing a little more contrast and energy on the "confident" finish. Perhaps apart from the Chenevottes, this might be the best of Philippe Colin's Chassagnes in 2015 and it will be well worth seeking out.

The 2014 Chassagne Montachet 1er Cru Maltoie is more backward and reticent on the nose at this early stage compared to the Chaumées, although like Colin's other 2014s, it is well defined. The palate is harmonious on the entry with a faint tang of sour lemon that lends tension. The minerality comes through on its second half with a linear, tensile finish that is more like a 2013 than 2015. But the aftertaste is very long and satisfying. Bon vin.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie, which comes from 0.23 hectares, has an animated, vibrant bouquet with lime zest, orange peel and limestone scents that are well delineated. The palate has good potential: nicely balanced, perhaps more understated than the other crus, but with fine precision on the pretty, white peach-tinged finish. Very fine.