The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes performed especially well during élevage last year, so I was curious to revisit it in bottle. Wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, beeswax, orange oil, petrol and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with bright acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, saline finish, fulfilling all the promise it showed in barrel.

Wafting from the glass with scents of orange oil, clear honey and pear, complemented by a subtle top note of petrol, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a gourmand core of fruit that's framed by tangy acids and chalky extract. It's a nicely balanced rendition of this early-ripening site.

Aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, spices and white flowers introduce the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, a medium to full-bodied wine with tangy acids and a chalky, tensile profile, concluding with a long, saline finish. This is another cuvée from Colin's domaine holdings, deriving from two plantings, one aged 45 and the other 60 years old.

There's only one barrel of the 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, but it's one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of lemon and lime zest, pastry cream, iodine and smoky reduction. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, deep and complete, with a beautifully satiny texture and superb balance. It's not a powerful Chenevottes, but it's supremely elegant.

The 2015 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Chenevottes has a touch more richness on the nose compared to the Maltroie, hints of clear honey, candy floss and almond. The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, the oak showing through a little more than other cuvées, but with satsifying weight and length on the walnut-tinged finish. I was just seeking a little more detail here, but it should drink well for several years.